Charity and Second hand Shopping - as good as it sounds?

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Hi guys! I'm here to warble again!

This post was prompted by a comment from a friend when we went to go see Pacific Rim during the summer (very good film, with big ass robots and even bigger monsters) - I had just recommended the Spin Doctor clothing label to him (an offshoot of popsoda - the company which also runs Hellbunny - who have a very dark steampunk aesthetic), and whilst he said he might consider it, he joked that he was of the 'old snobby goth clique and [thought] that everything should be purchased in charity shops'.

This stuck me as odd - not because I don't believe in charity shops, or because he wouldn't be able to get anything in them (quite the contrary; it's fantastically difficult for him to get things in high street shops, which is the main reason he shops in charity shops rather than a moral objection), but for the dismissal by some in the subculture of anything other than The One True Goth Way.

Now, although we often criticize goth brands for churning out low quality, easily DIYed products and homogenizing the subculture - and let's not mention the 'insta-goth kits' - the Spin Doctor brand seem to make an effort to converse with their customers and keep them updated of new developments, and the three items I own from them (all gifts for formal occasions) are very good quality. But that's not the point; the point is about how the purchase of second hand clothing can often turn into an example of elitism in our subculture.

At its heart, charity shopping is a good thing. You are reusing clothes that may otherwise have gone to landfill, which is good for the environment and ethically means you aren't funding unfair labour by buying non-fairtrade items and clothing. It's usually cheaper, which is always worthwhile, and you can find unique clothing that you might never find in the shops. You're also giving to a good cause - I've heard of people donating items to charity shops only to purchase them later, just so that the shop can have the proceeds. Additionally, there's a certain fun in hunting through the rails and shelves to find that one perfect shirt you've been looking for for years, and a pride when you look through your purchases.

But, equally, there are problems with the process, particularly associated with the gothic subculture. These tend to manifest in a snobbish elitism that suggests you aren't a real goth if you don't buy all your clothes at oxfam. This ultimatum tends to ignore the realities of second hand for some of us; clothes are difficult to find for plus sized shoppers, and unless you live in a very diverse and alt-friendly area it's difficult to find big names such as new rocks or items for very specific fashion styles such as bustle skirts or fluffy leg warmers. And what about your basics, such as tights or tank tops?

Moving away from the goth specific aspects, second hand shopping can be difficult for those who don't live in an area where there are charity shops, or have other restrictions as to where they shop. On top of this, it's not necessarily always cheaper; the charity shops of Glasgow's west end, for example, are just as expensive as anything on the high street, and vintage can be incredibly pricy.

So, what's my conclusion? I do believe in supporting charity shops and small businesses selling pre-owned clothing, but I don't believe that it's the only way. Yes, the original trad goths and post punkers may have purchased most of their clothing second hand. But just because that's the way it used to be, doesn't mean it always has to be that way. For many, it's  simply a case of being unable to get the kind of clothes that they like or can wear, and they shouldn't be made to feel guilty about that. I feel that, by attempting to be ethical in our shopping in high street shops as well as supporting independent crafters and good goth brand names, there is nothing wrong with not being able to shop second hand.

What's your opinions on charity shopping? Do you feel that it's a viable option for getting all your wardrobe from? Tell me in the comments! :)



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